Ugandan Clodendrum: 10 Care Tips
The name of the plant - clerodendrum - in Greek means "tree of fate" and hints at the direct connection of the flower with domestic happiness.
And this is no accident: a pleasant, delicate smell and a beautiful view of tropical butterflies guarantee a good mood for the domestic inhabitants.
Ugandan clerodendrum represents the verbena family. “Blue butterflies”, “Blue moths”, “Lyubyanka” - this is what the people called this plant because of the incredible similarity of its medium-sized blue flowers with butterflies. Four petals resemble wings, and the fifth - the abdomen of an insect. Long, bent stamens look like antennae.
The green leaves are pointed-oval, wrinkled, with thin shoots up to 2–2.5 m. The photos presented below clearly demonstrate this.
Liana blooms in April, and is preparing to rest by the end of autumn. Young shoots form new inflorescences resembling panicles.
Florists bred many other varieties of carrodendrum: such as variegatum inerme, prosero, Filipino, specosum, Bunge, Wallich, Thompson, Pagoda (clerodendrum paniculatum), champagne spray clrodendrum, etc.
Clerodendrum is often bred at home, as it is unpretentious. But some nuances must be taken into account. The flower is very fond of natural light, so it is better to place it in the south, southeast or southwest directions. North direction unacceptable: the plant withers because it does not like lamp light.
A simple pruning procedure supports growth and increases the splendor of the bush. Clodendrum is cut in spring or autumn, that is, not during flowering.
The shoots are shortened, while the crown can be formed not only as a loach, but also as a lush tree. To do this, remove the lower branches from the main shoot and leave a smooth trunk of the desired height.
- The plant needs to be fertilized. Rules for feeding:
- Fertilizers are better to choose complex, since it’s more useful to add all the elements at once than one at a time. So clerodendrum will experience less stress.
- Any fertilizer can burn, therefore need to be well diluted with water and do not fill the roots, but only the soil.
- Do not mix organic and mineral dressings, they need to be alternated. Clerodendrum is fertilized using organic matter once a month and mineral once a month.
Mineral fertilizers are much easier to carry. Organic is used with caution and in smaller quantities.
Clerodendrum is very fond of natural light and is not afraid of direct sunlight, therefore it is better to place it in appropriate places: on the loggia, balcony, open window.
Artificial light is not very welcome: the plant withers under such conditions.
In summer, a moderate temperature is needed, in winter - at least 12 and no more than 16 ° C. This is very important for a good rest and further growth of the clerodendrum.
Excessive moisture in the root area can lead to fungus and rot. Therefore, you must first wait for the top layer to dry, and then water it. Clerodendrum is able to absorb water throughout the surface, it must be sprayed.
If it's too hot humidify the air with water from a spray bottle. This will reduce the risk of stress and guarantee lush flowering. After flowering, clerodendrum will require much less moisture. During sleep, watering is minimal: only a lump is slightly wetted.
Important! For watering and spraying the flower, it is better to use melt or rain water.
Clerodendrum loves slightly acidic, humus-rich soils. A soil mixture of sand, peat, humus, leaf and soddy soil is quite suitable. You can choose the soil composition of the house or buy in the floristry store slightly acidic soil for roses.
The bottom of the pot is covered with a layer of drainage - it will prevent fluid stagnation, and the soil is disinfected with potassium permanganate to prevent infection by harmful microorganisms.
If cleonendrum is bought on the market, the soil must be replaced: it may contain pests. An exception is made only for plants from the floristry store.
Clerodendrum blooms very quickly and requires frequent transplantation - up to 2 times a year, in autumn and spring. This is done after trimming. The larger the new vessel, the more intense the growth of the vine.
There is a great risk of breaking off the roots, so it is better to transplant by the method of transshipment: the contents are poured into a large basin along with an earthen lump. The lump is carefully sent to new soil without tamping too much.
Crown shaping and trimming
Very young plantlets do not need pruning, but if there are several long shoots, the question certainly arises, how to support the crown.
Under natural conditions, clerodendrum grows up to 2 meters, but it will not be easy to take care of such a vine at home. Even in spring, before the active phase of growth, the shoots are shortened by half. This will increase the splendor and decorativeness of the plant.
In summer, the plant is best taken out into the fresh air - in the garden, on the balcony. Then pollination will occur in a natural way: wind, bees and other insects will spread pollen.
The flower reproduces well both by cuttings and seeds.
Propagation by cuttings is carried out as follows: the shoot with 3 internodes is cut obliquely with a sharp knife, put in a glass with water. When the roots appear, the plant is planted in the ground. It is impossible to condense it strongly: fragile roots can be broken.
Good rooting shoots in the moss. Wet sphagnum is placed in a plastic cup and cuttings are inserted there. The roots will be in a day. In a vessel, a flower is planted directly with moss. So you can easily save brittle roots from damage and give them nutrients.
To increase the density, take a few cuttings. Be sure to protect them from direct light and cover with polyethylene to grow better. Air them too: 10 minutes to remove the polyethylene.
Sowing seeds is quite time consuming. In March, seeds are planted in oily and nutritious soil. You can take a transparent container and plant the seeds there.
Watering is mandatory in the form of spraying with warm water at room temperature. Shoots will appear no earlier than in a month and a half. Watering continues in the same mode. As soon as two pairs of leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into pots, pre-dive.
After 5 years, an old plant is rejuvenated: cardinally cut and replaced with seedlings from cuttings.
Clerodendrum in winter
In winter, the plant needs a dormant period. Therefore, it is important to observe some rules:
- Never place a vessel with a flower near batteries and radiators: you can dry the roots and they will die.
- Monitor the temperature: optimally 12 ... 16 ° C.
- Spray an earthen lump with water, but do not wet it much.
- Avoid drafts and hypothermia.
- Keep the pot with a lump in a dark and cool place.
Subject to these rules, the clerodendrum, having gained strength, will please spring with abundant and healthy flowering.
In this video, the specialist once again listed the basic rules of care:
Diseases and Pests
The main problem of many beginner gardeners is the frequent watering in cool time, non-observance of the light regime, drafts. Frequent violations of the temperature regime, causing the clrodendrum to turn yellow and dry or, conversely, rot.
Among flower pests, the most active are aphids, spider mites and scale insects.. Aphid does not appear on its own: it is brought with other plants or on clothes. The parasite sucks the juice and kills the plant. Leaves affected by aphids begin to curl.
They fight aphids with the help of laundry soap: a tinder bar is rubbed and added to the water 1: 1. Such a concentrated solution is once again diluted, poured into a spray bottle and sprayed with clerodendrum. Large leaves can be wiped manually.
Spider mites are greenish-brown insects with a rounded bristly body. They hide at the bottom of the leaves, they are difficult to see. But noticeable is their masonry from inside the leaves. It helps to get rid of them with a soap solution, infusion from the husks of onions and garlic.
Onion feathers are boiled in water and diluted with water one to one, spray the plant with this solution. Similar actions with garlic. Using a solution of hot pepper is not recommended, since you can burn the delicate shoots of clerodendrum.
If the tick population is too high, you have to resort to chemistry. "Fitoferm", "Karbofos" - the best chemicals. The soil must be replaced, and the vessel is poured with boiling water. 2 ml of malathion is diluted in a liter of water.
Greens are treated by spraying from a spray bottle. The treated flower is covered with polyethylene for 3 hours. With a solution of karbofos, the frames and window sill are treated, that is, the place where the flower lived.
Scabies - insects with a translucent body in the form of a plate - are capable of eating a meter-long adult plant in a couple of weeks. It is difficult to deal with shields, it is better to use the chemical agent "Actellik". 2 ml is dissolved in a liter of water and immediately processed: all insects are collected by hand and discarded. Then the whole plant is heavily watered with a solution, the residues are added to the substrate.
Important! If the plant managed to lose 2/3 of the foliage, its death is inevitable.
Why does not bloom
Sometimes clerodendrum does not bloom. The reasons mainly come down to improper care. Maybe:
- Flower disturbed during dormancy - kept warm or in a draft, watered the roots too much. If you violate sleep conditions, clerodendrum will not bloom in spring.
- Liana not transplanted for a long time. If the plant has been in one place for more than 5 years, it can wither.
- The soil has exhausted its resource, there are no nutrients left in it. It is necessary to completely replace the soil, to feed.
- Clerodendrum did not feed. Supplements are needed once every two weeks, organic and mineral fertilizers alternate. Be sure to need potassium and fluoride. Nitrogen is given only at the very beginning of flowering. Top dressing in the autumn is reduced and not carried out until February.
- The plant, on the contrary, was overfed, and it does not want to bloom.
- The soil composition is too alkaline or too acidic.
- The pot is too huge, and the clerodendrum takes root to the root, gaining mass.
- The shrub has just been transplanted and is experiencing stress.
- The reason is simple - drought. If a plant is thirsty, it will not bloom.
- The flower is affected by pests and slowly dies.
In all of these cases, clerodendrum will not bloom. In September, he goes to rest and stops flowering in winter.
In ancient times, clerodendrum was planted in honor of the goddess of love Aphrodite, flowers decorated temples, statues. Nowadays, it is valued no less, because it is very beautiful and already has more than 300 varieties.